There should be a rule against writing up a review in January - for an indulgent meal you ate in the glory days of December - before the New Year no-carb-no-booze regime kicked in. Oh well, here goes…. We dined at Anzu – a new project from the fine folks behind le cool’s fave ramen spot, Tonkotsu – last month, and what a pleasure it was. The speciality is “teishoku”, a traditional Japanese set meal which includes a main, rice, miso and pickles. I opted for the katsu of pork, seabass, Madagascar prawn with a wispy ball of hispi cabbage. The incredible prawn was so enormous and delicious, my husband (with a lifelong shellfish allergy) even considered taking a highly risky bite. Thankfully for everyone, he stuck with his Welsh lamb cutlets and their very complimentary chili miso. Before he showed up, I snuck in some king crab and pork gyoza; the punchy little dumplings washed down well with the signature Anzu Spritz. We held back from ordering one of the four ramen on the menu, but that doesn’t mean you should – the slurptastic tsukemen sounds great. Anzu’s elegant wood and stone setting is a calm respite from Piccadilly Circus’ crassness, and is lovely for dinner, but would be equally chill for lunch (when things are a bit cheaper). Book it in.