Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

By Maeve
21A Foley Street, W1W 6DS
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Tues - Sun 12pm - midnight
How much?
£5-£20 per dish

As many of the most interesting on London’s foodie scene, Bonnie Gull first sharpened its fish knives with pop-ups and pie-and-mash-shop takeovers. This post-adolescence acheivement is a permanent, bijou (a word for proper restaurants, non?) Seafood Shack serving morsels fished and hunted from the waters and land of these isles. Sea creatures headline, incredibly fresh and prettily plated with sharp, light flavours. Whole Devon crab with chips and shack mayo was a favourite and there’s no way of eating one without going feral, which is good. It normalises my substandard table manners. Amidst the cracking and gnawing of crustacean shells there’s a Raw Bar serving cockles, whelks and winkles and the playful cocktails (the Bloody Mary comes with an oyster). Thankfully Bonnie Gull hasn’t grown up too much. / Jess Fagin