Kensal Rise has always been good for Caribbean food – where d’you think all those stall-holders who line the Harrow Road at Carnival learn their stuff – but Cocodelic just brought the whole business up a notch. Because what looks from the outside like just another west London brunch place actually mixes up Caribbean flavours and British comfort food with real aplomb. It opened as a cake place (and very good it was too) but we popped in last week to find a vast new menu. Pumpkin roti was a perfect mix of filling and spicy while the cinnamon apple pancakes were a revelation. So go in fact that we came back for lunch the next day just to check we hadn’t been mistaken. And we weren’t; thyme and beef broth was true to its island roots while the catch of the day in coconut sauce and sweet potato mash was as good as we’ve had in the area. Great food, friendly staff, Monmouth coffee and decent prices – just what you want from a neighbourhood place.
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