Daddy Bao

By Le Cool
113 Mitcham Road, London, SW17 9PE
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Lunch: Tuesday - Friday 12pm - 3pm Dinner: 6pm - 11pm; Saturday 11am - 11pm; Sunday 11am - 10pm

Described by some as Taiwanese hamburgers, bao buns are addictive pillowy clouds of deliciousness, piled high with all sorts of moreish fillings. Frank Yeung’s Mr Bao in Peckham serves up an array of fine specimens, and now we have his second offering in Tooting – a place called Daddy Bao, named in honour of his father Joe. It’s an inviting space, red lanterns hang from the ceiling giving off a warm glow. Our advice? Start with a cocktail (mine’s a punchy Plum Wine Negroni) or a fragrant lychee pale ale (this is a bespoke creation, a further tribute to Joe) and let the buzzy atmosphere envelop you whilst you peruse the notepad menu. Order three to four dishes per person: do not miss the smoky and nutty sesame aubergine adorned with jewels of pomegranate, or the crisp yet moist fried chicken. Then go for it and get your bao on – thick and meaty teriyaki shiitake mushroom with onion two ways is the star of the show, followed closely by wonderfully tender five-spice beef brisket with crunchy wasabi slaw. How do you eat yours – like a hot-dog, burger-styley, sideways on? However you choose to devour them, one thing’s for sure, these baos are the daddy.

Laura Evans