Place

Diwana

By Maeve
Where?
121-123 Drummond St, NW1 2HL­­
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When?
Mon-Sun 12-11pm
How much?
varies

The best thing about Diwana – other than its South Indian street food – is that it’s a genuinely unpretentious 40-year-old institution. Settle in a wooden booth for dosa – arm-sized pancakes curled around curry; bhel poori – puffed rice and masala that relegates Bombay mix to the inedible and pani poori, hollow shells filled with tamarind and yogurt. Approach these like dim sum – munch whole or deny yourself the pop of sweet, sharp innards. Eat off utilitarian metal dishes alongside in-the-know loners, Euston-bound travellers and groups filling up before a night out, all in agreement that Diwana is a delicious refill en route to wherever else they are going. This is what street food, whether indoors or curb-side, should be. BYO booze and expect no meat. / Jess Fagin