Last week we explored the gooey wonders of fonduta at Forza Win(ter) and, with the smoke still clinging to our coats, we wrapped up for another al fresco(ish) pop-up, December be damned. In actual fact, Dram & Smoke belie their rough-neck, Scottish roots and make this repurposed industrial space down-right cosy. The heat from the kitchen spills out and mingles with the inner glow from the Monkey Shoulder cocktails served upon arrival. By the time the haggis balls come out, we’ve shed our coats and thoroughly whet our whistles. What follows is the highlight of our evening; a smoked coley and beetroot salad. Anyone who claims that British cuisine lacks subtlety must be directed to this dish immediately. Hearty plates of savoury porridge and venison follow, leaving our chests heaving and our belts groaning. By the time the desert arrives, accompanied by Monkey Shoulder miniatures, the room is roaring with conversation as tongues are loosened around the communal dining tables. Don’t spend winter mourning the summer, celebrate it; this is seasonal dining at its best.