In the restaurant business, everyone’s looking for that perfect combination: the right food, the right place, the right vibe. And on the evidence Le Cool saw when we checked out Gilly’s Fry Bar, Neil Gill (of Season, nearby on the Stroud Green Road) has got this one just right. To be fair, there can be few things more comforting than a Northern chippy’s deep fried delights, but the mix here with Asian flavours is complimentary, not contrived. We started with a sharp, delightful chilli sea bass sashimi, which provided a sharp protein hit, then went hard into the fried fish selection. Highlights were plaice that actually tasted of something, well accompanied by Japanese Kewpie mayo and sweet, succulent hake. Plus, the fishcakes were huge and laced with gherkins, so no longer a cheap bit of filler here. But in the end you know they’ve got it right when the chips and curry sauce is so resonant of a snack from childhood, but in a sharp little neighbourhood spot in Finsbury Park that has the potential to liven up the area. Fried things and cocktails? Can’t go wrong, really.