Our first impression of Granger & Co. sounds like a useless platitude unless we contextualise it. You see, as we sat in the light and spacious corner table of this expertly detailed addition to the Clerkenwell food scene, the clouds opened. We’re talking biblical torrents here. And yet, our first impression remained, this restaurant feels like summer. It feels like you can smell salt and sea and sun cream. And it feels like everything you consume was picked, plucked, caught or cut just out of sight and straight from the source.
The cocktails are garden fresh with cucumber, aloe vera, basil and coriander used daringly throughout the menu. Our pick of the Small Plates was the Bass ceviche, which rivals some of the Capital’s best raw fish dishes. It was the seafood that caught our eye, perhaps the rising water levels outside inspired us, but we couldn’t resist continuing the theme. The tea smoked salmon had all the complexity of an aged cut of beef while the crab, chorizo & house kim chee fried brown rice provided the most pleasant surprise of the evening, completely surpassing our expectations. A new addition to the menu, a whole, unfilleted and completely perfect Bream stole the show. You may have noticed that we rarely mention deserts. Simply put; make room for the pavlova. Bill Granger has sourced inspiration from all over the globe but it would be a disservice to use such a tired label as, fusion. The concept feels concise, deliberate and to us, even on a blustery, wet Thursday, it felt like a much needed holiday.