Hawksmoor Borough

16 Winchester Walk, SE1 9AQ
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Mon-Sun 12–2:30pm, 5–10:30pm

Just on the edge of Borough Market, in a beautiful Victorian warehouse, this addition to the Hawksmoor London steakhouse empire is in keeping with its sisters and brothers – wood-lined, mahogany and dark green leather seats, lights all dimmed. The classics are still on the menu; Old Spot belly ribs and Roast scallops, white port & garlic, signature steaks and Sunday roasts. But there are also a few market specials, allowing head chef Simon Cotterill to make the most of the proximity to Borough Market and the local produce on offer there.
On the night of our visit, we (surprise, surprise) head straight for the downstairs bar where we settle in for a pre-dinner tipple. Scallops to start are melt-in-mouth delicious and sweet, the monkfish for main a total highlight – the thick chargrilled wedge with fennel and thyme creating rivalry at the table. Naturally, the fillet steak is beautiful, perfectly pink and served with a peppercorn sauce. It’s not easy on the wallet, but it is as near to perfect as British food gets.