The distinctive look of The Holy Birds is such that someone was taking pictures of the door as they walked in – the 60s décor literally bursts forth as soon as you walk in. Those who don’t like a splash of colour with their food will struggle with the mainly orange and yellow colour scheme, but Le Cool gets it – think Mad Men’s Don Draper feeling uncomfortable about the hip new style and you’ve got it. The food, though, is on more familiar ground as organic poultry and game take centre stage. When we visited we went for the goose & apricot terrine and duck breast carpaccio, which both lacked a bit of seasoning to be honest. But this is a big meaty main course type of place and they were on better form here – the Whole Beer Butt chicken was indeed the whole bird, slathered in punchy gravy, while my friend’s pigeon, cranberry and kale dish was subtly flavoured. But surprisingly for such a meat palace, top marks go to the puddings: parkin with toffee Sauce and clotted cream was a gingery treat and the chocolate & sea salt Baked Alaska a cognac-glazed dream. Give it a go.