I’m a big fan of the mash-up. One of my all time favourites is Missy Elliot’s Get Ur Freak On vs The Cure’s Close to Me. There’s no reason why those two tracks, those artists, should work together but they do and they’re all the better for it. The same is true of a bahn mi – the perfect mash-up of French and Vietnamese cuisine. To historians it’s a symbol of the merging of cultures in Vietnam, but let’s not pretend there’s anything highbrow in our intentions. To you and to me it’s just a really good sandwich. The best place to buy one is Keu, Shoreditch, which has now opened in Soho. Here, duck, brisket and even smoked aubergine have been given the bahn mi treatment. We went for the classic with spiced pork belly, ham terrine, chicken liver pate and kewpie mayonnaise. Rich and creamy vs sharp and spicy. You can’t shake a French stick at that.