For a lesson in great service, we’d recommend spending a couple of hours observing the restaurant floor from the adjacent wine bar. The Portuguese and Spanish wines are recommended and poured by the most delightful of sommeliers, while waiters masterfully dance the fine line between being helpful and being in the way. Yes it is ‘fine dining’, and there are dishes on the menu that would probably make you raise an eyebrow, and it’s not all that easy on the wallet. But chef Leandro Carreira has succeeded in creating something special with Londrino. Dishes, moreish and alluring in equal measure. Hours go by and we hardly notice. Octopus and red pepper miso, a hole mackerel with savoy cabbage in seaweed butter (yum) and not one, but three different ice creams flavoured with caraway, caramel and vanilla, whey and smoked honey, make their way past our hungry lips. It’s complex, experimental and well worth a visit.