Tucked away, up some narrow stairs leading us from the familiar buzz of Flat Iron Square at the start of a payday weekend into a small restaurant with neat wooden tables and chairs lined up along the open windows, is Lupins. Serving up traditional British food, Lupin was opened by two young female chefs, Lucy Pedder and Natasha Cooke, this summer.
First choice to make: sit alongside the bar downstairs to watch the chefs work, or upstairs to get away from the hustle on busy evenings. And while the food deal is straightforward, flawlessly executed, fuss-free food – a familiar menu turned imaginative; sumac lamb and pomegranate molasses, chipotle roast pigeon with charred baby gem and carrots, the second choice of what to eat is harder. Many small plates to share is the key. And a final decision, which of the many natural, organic and biodynamic wines on the wine list to try, is not really hard at all. It turns out it’s almost impossible to mess up at Lupins.