There’s always that slightly embarrassing moment when you have American guests over and after a while they say, “Hey, let’s go for Mexican,” and you have to reveal to them that the cuisine they love back home doesn’t really exist over here, replaced instead by a starchy mixture of fried beans, fried cheese and fried bread. So thank goodness for Mole which turns out to be one of the capital’s best new Mexicans for many a long year. The ideas behind its success aren’t anything complicated; fresh ingredients with everything from the guacamole to the tacos made on site, an emphasis on the lighter, plate-sharing side of Mexican cuisine, and smart, knowledgeable staff. The fish tacos were as good as we’ve had this side of the pond, a tuna tostada was a super-fresh take on a ceviche and a salad that contained Napal cactus, grilled pineapple and crispy quinoa was much better than it sounds. The guacamole – the litmus test for a Mexican – was flawless and the anticuchos (cooked on a Japanese robata grill) were a nice touch. We didn’t get to the short-ribs, it was lunchtime, but we’ve heard very good things. This is going to be the post-Selfridges dinner spot of many a Londoner very soon.
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