Murger Han Mayfair

By Le Cool
8A Sackville St, Mayfair, W1S 3DF
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Sunday to Saturday Midday - 10pm
How much?
Average meal for two (without alcohol): £30

Duck off Piccadilly’s main drag and you’ll find Murger Han an unassuming love letter to Xi’an City, best known for being the origin of the Terracotta Army. Its cuisine is less so, but deserves a full trumpet fanfare – it’s all heady, aromatic stuff. For the full sensory experience, sit near the kitchen to see (and hear) chefs hand-pull the dough into eight-foot “Biang Biang” noodles, aptly named for the slapping sound they make during the process. These wheat noodles may not be date food – they are so long you just have to gnash through them – but are bang on flavour-wise: slick with chilli oil, tomato sauce and jewelled with fragrant braised pork. And with change from a tenner, it’s seriously good value for money, especially given the Mayfair address. Another speciality is the “Murger” (or rou jia mo in Chinese), a pan-baked flatbread filled with gently spiced, slow-cooked pork belly (£5). It’s totally addictive and the perfect umami contrast to the hefty noodle dishes. Watch out though: the spicier dishes are as fiery as they come, so check with staff in case you’re after something milder. Don’t miss the cloudy, ambrosial Xi’an Rice Wine to wash all Murger Han’s marvels down with.