Naples gives a f**k what you think. This is a city where 12 year olds ride motorbikes, ghetto streets bottom-bump bouji boulevards and deep-fried treats are sold like pick n mix. Dotted throughout the city are friggitorias – small glass cabinets usually sitting outside pizzerias, displaying healthy mounds of golden bon bons. Risotto, macaroni, mashed potato…they can all be balled, breaded and bathed in boiling oil. Served in white-turned-translucent paper bags, they are hoovered in the street and taste better than your entire seven-course taster menu. They are an ever-lasting food memory in a small and greasy ball and they make a perfect case for Naples being the best city in the world. That was until Pizza Pilgrims did what someone should’ve done years ago. They’ve only gone and opened a friggitoria in their new pizza joint in the heart of Soho. Naples, it’s on. You may have ancient ruins and a volcano for a neighbour, but we are London. And now the Pizza Pilgrims boys have nailed your frittatine di maccheroni. Be afraid.