It stands to reason that, in London, the shortest distance between farm and table would be West Sussex to the Kings Road. Rabbit may nestle neatly amongst the boutiques of Chelsea’s main promenade but we heard rumblings of something special in the kitchen. This is far from traditional rural fare. The structure of the menu and service is distinctly continental with small, sharing plates brought out in a carefully curated precision so as to maximise flavour pairings. Our first two dishes, trout tartare alongside red gurnard on a bed of artichokes was even more than the sum of its individually phenomenal parts. A carafe of the house rosé dovetails the fish and meat dishes perfectly. Whether it is the venison stogies or the rabbit ravioli there is a reluctance to fall back on the familiar cannon of rural, British dining; a tarted up pub lunch, this is not. The truffle and wild mushroom ragu was our highlight of the night and quite possible our favourite vegetarian dish of the year. Imaginative, eclectic and surprisingly multi-cultural, is this the nouveau Chelsea? It’s certainly the area’s best poster boy since The Big Easy opened its illustrious doors in 1991.
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