Bringing good fish n’ chips to this end of the Essex Road is a noble mission, and Sutton & Sons does a decent job of just that. Fish ‘n’ chips is, of course, the most British of takeaways, and as such conjures up visions of weekend treat with your folks… though chances are the chippies of your youth didn’t offer oysters or moules mariniere as starters, or even do starters at all. But this is London, 2016 – anything is possible. Enough of that though, what really matters here is the fish; generously portioned, well coated in light but savoury batter and the chips; thick, not too crisp (they’re not French Fries ffs) and satisfyingly well-shaped to pick up the free tartar sauce, or the curry sauce we went for – and be warned, one serving of this will work for two. A classic done well.