Vaulted ceilings, narrow ailes, uncomfortable benches; it’s no surprise that Brixton’s markets are treated with almost divine reverence by London’s foodie population. Market Row and Brixton Village are culinary cathedrals, and the pilgrims are coming thick and fast. There’s just one problem; despite the carnival atmosphere and sprawling choices, everything shuts down depressingly early. It all sounds familiar but come the hour, come the man. Three Eight Four is the younger sibling of Market Row darling, Seven and it seems that the restrictive licensing has lit a fire under the ownership, who are hell-bent on bringing late night dining to Brixton. The walls are stripped and adorned with up-cycled light fittings, the menu is deliciously on-trend with brisket and ceviche sitting alongside more traditional tapas dishes such as calamari and garlic prawn. With the sharing/snacking nature of the food and the kitchen remaining open until midnight Thursday to Saturday, food can be enjoyed until well into the wee hours. A special mention has to go to the signature Manhattan served in an ice cold shaker, brimming with thick wood smoke.
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