Dining and drinking at Cub – the brainchild of cocktail wizard Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan – is a real experience: from the incredibly well thought out set menu focusing on sustainability and minimising footprint and the dazzling, passionate staff, to the funky interior decked out with booths and mustard banquettes (do grab one that faces the bar cum kitchen). During dreaded Dry January we opt for the booze-free selection of tipples: created by their skilled barman, he mixes each of the six libations with flair. Our top pick? Krug pear shrub made from fermented (thus removing the alcohol), flat champers – the end result is slightly vinegary yet totally moreish. Food-wise we’re particularly impressed by a dish made almost entirely from cabbage – velvety puréed outer leaves and pickled heart sit in a smoky, meaty-tasting broth; yet it’s animal-free. We devour a host of unusual ingredients too: hogweed, we’re told, is invasive and prolific with a cardamom-like flavour – used in a custard and served with buckwheat popcorn, whiskey poached pear and lemon thyme snow, it’s an accomplished and super tasty dessert. This is clever cooking indeed.

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