After the enduring success of sibling restaurants The Salt Room and The Coal Shed in Brighton, the latter has birthed an outpost in the Capital, tucked into the resplendent One Tower Bridge development. Its frontage might be easy to miss, but once inside, it’s all burnt timber, covetable jade green upholstery and brasserie-style lighting. Sleek and contemporary as it may be, The Coal Shed‘s staff are warm and affable, bringing a lightness to the macho space. Adopting the Brighton blueprint of to-die-for chargrilled steaks and seafood, the menu is concise but balanced: think fire roasted oysters and devilled crab on toast for starters and steak cuts (sold by weight, so best for sharing) for the main event. Vegetable sides are not to be missed – each has a carnivorous twist, whether it’s charred baby gem with crispy bacon or burnt ends with mash, so best to leave your veggie friends at home. Pescatarians, however, will be in heaven – this is a restaurant that masters both creatures of the land and sea – the whole tandoori sea bream was a revelation: succulent fish falling off the bone, with a mound of fennel bhaji scraps. Just behind Nicolas Hyntner’s newly opened Bridge Theatre, this would make the ideal luxe pre or post theatre dinner spot. And whatever you do, order the bread – it comes with smoked butter and whipped beef fat. Say no more.

Megan Carnegie

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