The burger revolution has happened. Followed with London-style swiftness by a burger revolution backlash. Now for stage three. I propose a backlash against the backlash. Let’s get serious. Can London ever have too many burger joints? As burgers are replaced by hot dogs or ceviche or quinoa in the favour of fad botherers, a legacy will remain – a fair helping of neighbourhood joints where you can finally find a mighty fine patty and bun. The weak will fall by the wayside and the strong will rise to the top, like bouncy donuts bobbing happily in trans fat. Dirty Burger looks set to rise. Their new spot in Whitechapel is a reminder that these guys know all there is to know about the art of fast food. The burger fits perfectly in your mitts; its meat is all at once soft, salty and crusted; and it’s encased in a shiny bun that yields perfectly to the bite but not to the charred and sloppy fillings. Martinis come with pickles, fries are crinkled and the onion rings are straight from the fairground. Plus, in this branch you can also order from the Chicken Shop menu. For the haters, there’s always chicken.

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