A fame flickered room strewn with foliage welcomes diners as they descend into the basement restaurant of Fare Bar + Canteen. A new venture by the team behind Sager and Wilde, upstairs houses a more casual space – a large bar with cocktails on tap dominates, with a pizza oven and coffee counter at either end. Back down a level – on our amiable server’s recommendation – we decide on two small plates and a couple of larger ones. Do take the expert sommelier’s advice: for us she suggests a bottle of Maldición – medium-bodied, with good structure and tannins, it’s infinitely quaffable. Food-wise, unmissable is the Jerusalem artichoke – coated in a well-balanced caper and herb dressing and topped with crispy sage, the pieces of veg are roasted to perfection and super soft on the inside. Also top-notch is a pile of plump brined mussels atop toast slicked with aioli. Tender lamb shoulder lightly spiced with harissa and ruby red Denver flank steak don’t disappoint either. A still-warm doughnut filled with rich pear purée and smooth as can be pumpkin creme brûlée round things off on a high. All in all, one of our top meals of 2018.

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