Having serviced our fizz needs for over seven years on the Southbank, sparkling wine specialist Grays & Feather has just gained a permanent home in the heart of theatreland. Upstairs is bright and polished, while things get more bohemian in the basement, with wrought iron railings, peacock motifs and ornate upholstery. Intimate snug sections provide a welcome bolthole for those seeking shelter from the city. The menu is an eccentric, eclectic safari of sparkling wines from around the world, with a focus on provenance and small wineries. We started in safe territory with a French Blanquette, then on to a Gruner Veltliner from the ‘Weird and Wonderful’ section (full marks on both fronts), finishing with a stunning rose, soaked up by stylish small plates. They’re big on English wines, even serving London’s first single estate sparkling, whose green apple and butter notes hail from the little-known vineyards of…Enfield. No snobbery here, just discovery, flavour and fun.

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