We’ve been waiting for someone to step up to Dishoom for quite some time. And while Harneet and Devina Baweja’s initial venue in Spitalfields was a great start, its charming tininess prevented them from really testing the big dogs. However we can confirm this latest opening in Tower Bridge solidifies their position as the strongest contender to London’s Indian incumbent. Seating 100, the location is in Tower Bridge’s new Duchess Walk development (a somewhat bland modern stretch until you look up and see the magnificence of the Bridge itself) and definitely delivers upon its promise of complex flavours and modern homestyle Indian cooking. Interiors are all dark timbers and metals and tiles and will provide a comfy interval from any walk along the Thames. Faves from Spitalfields, like the tangy-yet-creamy aloo chaat and lip-licking Kashmiri lamb chops, have made their way south of the river where they are are joined by new and delightful additions: Madras style lollipop chicken and a fresh lentil and beetroot salad. We actually overdid it and couldn’t manage dessert, but I’m told the dark chocolate & cinnamon w/passion fruit shrikhand is off the hook.
