Despite London’s obsession with the humble curry, there are but few places that get it right. Amidst Dishoom’s breathless reviews (see: eye for décor and accessible menu), we’re finally offered something modest – in size and value. While it seats just 28, Gunpowder’s exquisite dark timbre layout makes it more cozy than cramped. Over in the kitchen, a short menu of home-style cooking means every dish gets the attention it deserves. Beware: traditional Indian cuisine comes with a default high spice-factor. After the lip-tingling mains is dessert, and the spicy rum pudding is something to behold. I’d say Gunpowder is a place for regulars but then, no one else would get a table.