A winning formula doesn’t need to be complicated. Meat = Good. Pub = Good. Meat + Pub = Double good. Okay, maybe that’s over-simplifying things. But when a Master butcher decides to open a full-time eating establishment, you can rest assured that the core ingredients will be well-sourced. The only thing to worry about is making it presentable for paying mouths. And that’s certainly no problem at Hill & Szrok. If you grill beautifully succulent butterflied lamb, you get beautifully grilled butterflied lamb. You also get a wonderfully fresh mint sauce that doesn’t taste like a jar of toothpaste. The porkpie was immense. The cauliflower cheese (might have been baby broccoli) was rich and mustardy. And the steak knife was so sharp I cut my finger. I was denied the opportunity to try the deep fried rice pudding, but I suppose I now have a perfectly valid reason to go back.

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